By Elinor Renfrew, Colin Renfrew
Fully up-to-date with new interviews and encouraging pictures, the 2d version of Developing a manner Collection covers every little thing the style pupil must be aware of earlier than designing their very own collections.
Developing a manner assortment focuses at the technique of designing a set, and explores varieties of study, textile sourcing, the main roles inside of a layout crew and the various resources of suggestion to be had to designers. assorted marketplace degrees from ready-to-wear to on-line purchasing are lined in-depth, and are given real-world context via insightful interviews with practicing modern designers. Collections for area of interest markets, together with knitwear, childrenswear and shoes also are mentioned.
The second version of Developing a manner Collection beneficial properties interviews with high-profile overseas modern model designers, together with Sister via Sibling, Holly Fulton, Todd Lynn, thefuturelaboratory, humans Tree, Leutton Postle and Insley & Nash.
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Additional info for Developing a collection
46 / 47 How did you develop this new collection? It’s a spring/summer collection, and I started by looking at my graduate collection – glamour with an edge or twist. I went to Harvey Nichols and Selfridges to look at price points for similar fashion – commercially viable pieces. Then I went to Première Vision in Paris for fabric sourcing; I had made a number of contacts whilst at Giles, so that was really helpful. I’m working on 12 outfits for this collection. 1–2 A/W08 collection by William Tempest.
We usually have old styles to refer to for fit, on which we base new styles. If it’s a new factory or a new fit we usually try to send an example from past seasons or a vintage garment to copy. 48 / 49 1–5 Illustrations by Colin McNair for John Varvatos. 4–5 What do you define as a collection or a range? A group of clothes that can consist of different categories, such as outerwear, leather, pants, jackets, denim (jeans), shirts, knits, sweaters and accessories. How many pieces on average per collection are for catwalk only?
This upwardly mobile period in fashion allowed women to ‘dress for success’. Of course, other designers reacted to these excessive styles. Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons collection caused a strong negative reaction in the early 1980s: her startlingly avant-garde, all-black collection in Paris was famously called ‘Hiroshima Chic’ by the press. The Antwerp Six and Martin Margiela were inspired by this reactionary approach to design and their unique methods of deconstruction continued to influence fashion throughout the 1990s: a direct reaction to the excesses of the time.