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Extra resources for Basics Fashion Design: Construction
6. The pattern is now ready to be cut out of calico and made into a toile for a fitting. Draw in the slashing lines according to your design. 2 Pattern cutting Slash and spread 1 Skirt constructed by slash and spread method to gain flare. 2/3 Asymmetric skirt that has been opened up on one side only. This method is used to add extra volume and flare. The technique involves creating slash lines that reach from one end of the pattern to the other, sometimes ending on a pivotal point like a dart ending.
The same applies to any underpinnings such as underskirts and corsetry. The collar can be fitted without an under-collar attached in the first fitting, as it makes it easier to fit for a better shape. Pocket positions can be drawn on in the fitting. It is easier to find the right position with the live model as they can attempt to put his or her hands into the pocket. If pocket flaps or patch pockets are used, cut out shapes of the sample fabric ready to be pinned on in the fitting. If the final fabric has a pattern, draft parts of it onto the toile to show off detailing.
It takes time and patience to cut out a pattern in fabric. Taking time to prepare for cutting and marking the fabric pieces guarantees a better result when putting the garment together. It is also helpful to have a firm understanding of fabrics and weaving techniques. For more information on the specific qualities of various fabrics see Basics Fashion Design: Textiles and Fashion. What is a grain line? Pattern cutting A material is woven using a yarn going lengthways (the warp) and crossways (the weft).