Arab dress: a short history : from the dawn of Islam to by Yedida Kalfon Stillman

By Yedida Kalfon Stillman

This richly illustrated quantity is a old and ethnographic examine of 1 very important point of Arab and Islamic fabric tradition - garments. whereas partly descriptive, its critical concentration is at the evolution and variations of modes of gown during the last 1400 years through the center East, North Africa, and for the center a while, Islamic Spain. Arab garments is handled as a part of an Islamic vestimentary method and is mentioned in the context of the social, non secular, esthetic, and political developments of every age.In addition to the 5 ancient chapters, 3 chapters are dedicated to significant topics of Arab gown historical past - the gown code for non-Muslims, the real socio-economic and political establishment of luxurious materials and clothes of honor, and the main recognized and regularly misunderstood establishment of veiling.

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47 al-N§bigha al-Dhuby§nÊ, DÊw§n al-N§bigha al-Dhuby§ni, ed. MuÈammad Abu ’l-Fa·l Ibr§hÊm (D§r al-Ma#§rif: Cairo, 1990), p. 47, vs. 25. 45 22 chapter one Each sandal might have one or two laces (shir§k or shir§k§n). ) came into vogue after the conquests and were adopted from the Persians and the Byzantines. Early Islamic laws and customs regarding clothing The austere nature of the early Medinese umma which reflected the conviction that the Last Judgment was not far off did not encourage luxury of any kind.

L. A. Mayer Memorial Institute for Islamic Art: Jerusalem, 1980), passim. 67 al-Bukh§rÊ, ‘aÈÊÈ, Kit§b al-Lib§s, b§bs 90 and 93; Ibn \anbal, Musnad VI, p. 172. , 92. 26 chapter one embroidered figures just as they had no objection to silk, brocade, and other luxury fabrics. As already noted, many of the garments worn in early Islamic times were the same for both men and women, especially tunics and wraps. There were, nonetheless, distinct stylistic differences. Islam, like Judaism and Christianity, strictly condemns transvestitism.

63 It is not certain whether or not women in the early umma had special clothes for mourning. During the J§hiliyya, a woman wore her worst clothes when in mourning for a husband. 64 The technical term for “mourning garment” (thawb al-Èid§d) only appears in Ibn \anbal (Musnad VI, 438) and seems to be a later development. 65 The iconoclasm of early Islam extended to garments with images embroidered upon them. Coptic, Byzantine, and Persian garments of the period frequently had human, animal, and vegetal figures on them on the decorative bands and patches.

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